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1 Bars
The connecting threads across spaces in all needle-point laces, which join the various solid parts of the lace together. They are of numerous forms. Also known as Brides, Bride Claires, Coxcombs, Legs, Ties and Pearls. -
2 Crochet Lace
Any hand-knitted lace made with the crochet hook. Similar to needle-point lace, but coarser; they imitate such laces as Venetian and Honiton. Irish crochet is the most popular and is of linen thread. Imitations come from many Eurpoean and Asiatic countries. The various design elements are made separately and joined together by bars. -
3 Damascene Lace
An adaptation of Honiton lace, and formed by joining Honiton sprigs with corded bars and lace braiding. -
4 Braid Lace Work
Narrow laces made on the pillow in braid styles. They all have " runners " or threads that form straight lines along the length with various fancy stitches connecting these together. These braids are used in making guipure lace by connecting them together with brides; also much used as edgings, borders and ornament for dresses, children's garments, underwear, etc. The principal varieties are: - Cloth Braid - Resembles plain weave, has four pairs of straight lines with cross stitches joining them together. Cucumber Braid - Has two borders of four threads each connected with spaced stitches. Shadow Braid - The runners are crossed in diamond mesh. Hole Braid - Plain cloth stitch all through with small holes formed in the centre at intervals. Ladder Braid - There are two pairs of runners on one side, and one pair only on the other. Stitched together in ladder-like bars. Lattice Braid - Runners in five pairs, and stitched to form a lattice effect. Open Braid - Runners in two sets - at the sides, connected with spaced loops giving an open tape. -
5 Duchesse Lace
A costly bobbin lace with a ground of brides and bars. Sections of the design, such as leaves, spray sand flowers, are closely worked, giving a tape-like effect. Used for bridal robes and elaborate dresses. -
6 Ecru Lace
A lace made of two kinds of braid, one plain and the other crinkled and worked into large patterns by means of bars of thread. -
7 Honiton Braid Lace
Narrow machine-made braid; of oval figures connected by narrow bars. Used for collars, handkerchiefs, etc.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Honiton Braid Lace
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8 Renaissance Lace
Of two sorts, fine for dresses and coarse for draperies. It consists of fine linen tape made into a design and the parts connected together with twisted bars wheels and other flat stitches. -
9 Angleterre Bars
Fancy stitch used in modern point lace. It fills spaces between the braids with crossed threads in small squares having a spot or small knot at each junction. -
10 Grounds
There are two styles of ground in lace work - The Bride and the Reseau. The bride ground consists of bars connecting the motifs forming the pattern, and the reseau is a net work made with the needle or with bobbins. -
11 Bayadere
Fabric woven from all grey warp and with coloured bars in the weft in alternate stripes of brilliant colours, both in silk and mixed yarns, plain and twill weaves. They are really crossovers. At times lace or other trimmings are sewn across a grey fabric to form cross stripes. The name is derived from Bayadine dancing girls of the underworld in India. The striped garment being supplemented with a filmy scarf or shawl, jewelled trousers, bangles, gold sequins, anklets, etc. -
12 Cocks Combs
A trade term for brides or bars. -
13 Honiton Guipure
Large flower effect lace on very open ground, the sprays being held together with brides or bars. -
14 Pillow-Bar
The ground of pillow lace. The bars may be either plain or with a minute pearl edge, and consist of irregular threads or groups of threads drawn from one part of the pattern to another. -
15 Point A Brides
The ground of lace when made of brides or bars. -
16 Rayleigh
Irregular bars in guipure lace. -
17 Dawson, William
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. mid-eighteenth centuryd. c.1805 London, England[br]English inventor of the notched wheel for making patterns on early warp knitting machines.[br]William Dawson, a Leicester framework knitter, made an important addition to William Lee's knitting machine with his invention of the notched wheel in 1791. Lee's machine could make only plain knitting; to be able to knit patterns, there had to be some means of mechanically selecting and operating, independently of all the others, any individual thread, needle, lever or bar at work in the machine. This was partly achieved when Dawson devised a wheel that was irregularly notched on its edge and which, when rotated, pushed sprung bars, which in turn operated on the needles or other parts of the recently invented warp knitting machines. He seems to have first applied the idea for the knitting of military sashes, but then found it could be adapted to plait stay laces with great rapidity. With the financial assistance of two Leicester manufacturers and with his own good mechanical ability, Dawson found a way of cutting his wheels. However, the two financiers withdrew their support because he did not finish the design on time, although he was able to find a friend in a Nottingham architect, Mr Gregory, who helped him to obtain the patent. A number of his machines were set up in Nottingham but, like many other geniuses, he squandered his money away. When the patent expired, he asked Lord Chancellor Eldon to have it renewed: he moved his workshop to London, where Eldon inspected his machine, but the patent was not extended and in consequence Dawson committed suicide.[br]Bibliography1791, British patent no. 1,820 (notched wheel for knitting machine).Further ReadingW.Felkin, 1867, History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture (covers Dawson's invention).W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London (provides an outline history of the development of knitting machines).RLH
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